Desi Jackets

About Handloom

Farmers and handloom weavers make up the majority of the workforce in our country. The chances of surviving a calamity can be augmented by implementing sustainable methods in these two domains. Our country has a rich, diverse and versatile tradition of handloom and a variety of fabric, with each carrying an essence of the region of its origin.

Handwoven fabric is in high demand all around the world due to growing awareness about sustainable clothes, and only India has handlooms in an existing stage. What little is left of this textile art style will be wiped soon and hence, it is critical to work towards keeping this age-old tradition in surface.

Raw Material

The fabric used is plain, coarse, and easy to keep clean. Additionally the colors used for dyeing are organic and non-toxic to both environment and humans. Dyes are from locally available by-products which are readily available in the surrounding area. Yarn is dye with Indigo, Pomegranate, Myrobalan, Kasimkari, Arecanut juice, Jackwood, and other natural ingredients. The dyeing water is cleaned and utilized to irrigate plants. The entire procedure is free of hazardous chemicals, making it environmentally friendly. Because the cloth is handwoven and the entire process uses very little electricity, it is both economically and ecologically viable.

Making Process

Scouring

Impurities in yarn must be eliminate before dyeing can begin. This is a necessary step in the yarn’s preparation. The yarn is then boil in a big water tank to eliminate grease and filth. This entire process of cleaning dirt and boiling yarn is industrially know as scouring.

Hot Dyeing

An acidic solution is use to prepare the yarn. Then, as a mordant, an alum is utilize. This will aid colour correction. The yarn is then dip into the dye broth, for the requirements. The yarn is dip several times in different dye solutions to get a variety of colours. The second mordant dip, which takes place during the post-treatment stage, is use for dyes that require further procedures to achieve the desire colour.

Cold Vat Dyeing

The basic materials are combines in a pot and left to ferment for 1-2 days in this dyeing procedure. Depending on the desired hue, the yarn is dip one or more times. Indigo, for instance, is combines with limestone in a vat to produce a blue colour. For black colour, ‘Kasim Kari’ is employ, which involves fermenting a mixture of jaggery and iron rust for 15 days before using it to dip yarn. The yarn is then dip in a myrobalan solution after it has been dye (alalekai).

Drying

Before being sent to the weaving process, the colored and treated yarn is set out for drying naturally and uniformly.

Final Loom Steps

Pre-loom

The yarn (either unbeach ‘kora’ or colour with organic colors) is wound on two sizes of bobbins, one for the weft and the other for the warp design setting. The bobbin is first wound by hand with a hand-operated wheel. The bobbins are then load into a design setting rack in various colours. The warp is then put into the loom to create a ‘doli,’ which is then mounded onto the frame loom, depending on the design of the warp.

Loom

The warp and weft are woven on a hand-operate wooden frame loom to create the patterns. The final fabric strength and density are adjust base on the reed and pick of the cloth. With one ‘doli’ or bundle, an A-frame loom can produce around 240 metres of fabric. The loom can be modify with ‘dobby’ additions to achieve the necessary patterns depending on the design.

Post-Loom

Stitching, block-printing, Embroidery (Kasuthi), Tie-dyeing, Shrinking, and Ironing are some of the post-loom operations that differ based on the desired garment or finished product.